After what seemed like weeks of planning (actually just three days) it was hard to believe that this was the day we would have to climb into our rucksacks and actually start walking.
We got up at 6:30am to the sound of cockerels crowing and the general hub-bub of the little village waking up. Breakfast was banana porridge and hot milk tea - hopefully good for energy. With everything finally packed and the bill paid (Rs500 for us both!) we set off down the main street - actually the only street - and on to a dirt track. The pack didn't feel too heavy as we set off.
I was worried we would get endlessly lost, but the trail was easy to follow and after 1/4km headed up a steep hill and the going slowed somewhat. We passed many Nepalese and said, "Namaste" to them. Even from the start many locals were curious as to what Damien's didgeridoo was. I'm sure they think we are mad for carrying it. Actually I am not sure they are wrong.
[PHOTOS COMING LATER]
It took us a good few hours to reach the ridge at 2400m above sea level (a climb of 540m), but the skies were crystal clear and the gradient mercifully levelled off a little towards the top.
Along the way we met and chatted through puffs of breath quite a few other trekkers, of course all excited to be on their first day too, including a large group from the Czech Republic, two girls and a guy from South Korea and some Scandinavians with rope, crampons and all the works - that looked heavy!
Next the trail descended, gently at first, but then much more steeply which was hard work especially on the knees and ankles. I was preferring the uphill to my surprise. We passed through Mali which was just a collection of a few buildings at 2240m and then followed a stream, crossing a little suspension bridge, which I thought meant we were at Shavalaya where we planned to have lunch, but alas, we worked out that an old wooden bridge had recently been replaced since our guide was written and we had to trundle on for another half an hour before we sighted a much larger suspension bridge which was the beacon for lunch and finally to sit down.
However we we pulled up short of the bridge having bumped into Robin & Gump (Carol), the Canadian pair from the top of the bus journey the day before. They'd had a break somewhere before and were now heading out for the afternoon again, while Damien and I tucked into a very reasonable daal-baht lunch. The restaurant owners and kids loved the didgeridoo and they all had a try at playing it as we rested.
Refreshed and our energy levels replenished we set off through the little village of Shivalaya and signed our names on the police register. Then it was a grueling climb of 350m from 1,750m to a school house at Sangbadanda (2,150m). Here we met Robin & Gump again who had stopped for lunch & we joined them for a cup of milk tea and a rest.
The four of us set off again about 2pm and the trail continued upwards, though less steeply, but still steep enough to make you pant for breath. We saw the first of many mani walls, which are usually about 10m long, by 1m wide and 1m high and are lined by flat stones with the Buddhist inscription, “om mani padme hum”. Most of them are over grown with weeds and not particularly exciting although the script is beautiful.
It seems to take ages to get to the next landmark, a large house with blue windows, and thankfully the trail leveled out a bit for a while afterwards.
But soon after it was a bastard steep ascent to the top of the Kosaribas Pass at 2,705m. The little village at the top was beautiful, built around a collection of mani walls.
WE got a good photo of two little boys, but their older brother shooed them away thinking they were annoying us before I could get my black & white film camera out.
The view of the Likhu Khola Valley and Bhandar wasn’t too good as the clouds had come in and it was into these that we decended the 505m altitude to Bhandar (our ghoal for the day).
Going down hill was terrible. I had a blister on the big toe of my right foot which hurt with every step on it. We were all very tired and aching, and pretty much zombie-like walked down the zig-zagging path.
Robil, however was an exception, and forged ahead like a machine. We cought up to him at a little shop where we eat tiny bananas for a last burst of energy fuel to get us to Bhandar.
Thankfully the path leveled off a bit, but it was still tourture, we were so tired.
Just before dark (5.20pm) we finally arrived at the little settlement and after a quick demonstration on the didgeridoo from Damian to entertain the locals, we got a romm for RS10 each again in the Shoba lodge run by a very friendly woman.
There was a hot shower in the kitchen which was very welcome, but was actually so scalding hot it was almost impossible to get under – a stark contract to when you got out which was freezing!
We dined on garlic soup (good for altitude sickness prevention, so we are told), fried potatoes with cheese and lots of milk tea. An Ausiie bloke there had been along the trek and was now on his way back so we asked him losts of questions and talked about various accents of Everest itself and the many fatalities.
We were in bed by 8.30pm and soon asleep dreaming of the mountains to come.
[PHOTOS COMING LATER]
It took us a good few hours to reach the ridge at 2400m above sea level (a climb of 540m), but the skies were crystal clear and the gradient mercifully levelled off a little towards the top.
Along the way we met and chatted through puffs of breath quite a few other trekkers, of course all excited to be on their first day too, including a large group from the Czech Republic, two girls and a guy from South Korea and some Scandinavians with rope, crampons and all the works - that looked heavy!
Next the trail descended, gently at first, but then much more steeply which was hard work especially on the knees and ankles. I was preferring the uphill to my surprise. We passed through Mali which was just a collection of a few buildings at 2240m and then followed a stream, crossing a little suspension bridge, which I thought meant we were at Shavalaya where we planned to have lunch, but alas, we worked out that an old wooden bridge had recently been replaced since our guide was written and we had to trundle on for another half an hour before we sighted a much larger suspension bridge which was the beacon for lunch and finally to sit down.
However we we pulled up short of the bridge having bumped into Robin & Gump (Carol), the Canadian pair from the top of the bus journey the day before. They'd had a break somewhere before and were now heading out for the afternoon again, while Damien and I tucked into a very reasonable daal-baht lunch. The restaurant owners and kids loved the didgeridoo and they all had a try at playing it as we rested.
Refreshed and our energy levels replenished we set off through the little village of Shivalaya and signed our names on the police register. Then it was a grueling climb of 350m from 1,750m to a school house at Sangbadanda (2,150m). Here we met Robin & Gump again who had stopped for lunch & we joined them for a cup of milk tea and a rest.
The four of us set off again about 2pm and the trail continued upwards, though less steeply, but still steep enough to make you pant for breath. We saw the first of many mani walls, which are usually about 10m long, by 1m wide and 1m high and are lined by flat stones with the Buddhist inscription, “om mani padme hum”. Most of them are over grown with weeds and not particularly exciting although the script is beautiful.
It seems to take ages to get to the next landmark, a large house with blue windows, and thankfully the trail leveled out a bit for a while afterwards.
But soon after it was a bastard steep ascent to the top of the Kosaribas Pass at 2,705m. The little village at the top was beautiful, built around a collection of mani walls.
WE got a good photo of two little boys, but their older brother shooed them away thinking they were annoying us before I could get my black & white film camera out.
The view of the Likhu Khola Valley and Bhandar wasn’t too good as the clouds had come in and it was into these that we decended the 505m altitude to Bhandar (our ghoal for the day).
Going down hill was terrible. I had a blister on the big toe of my right foot which hurt with every step on it. We were all very tired and aching, and pretty much zombie-like walked down the zig-zagging path.
Robil, however was an exception, and forged ahead like a machine. We cought up to him at a little shop where we eat tiny bananas for a last burst of energy fuel to get us to Bhandar.
Thankfully the path leveled off a bit, but it was still tourture, we were so tired.
Just before dark (5.20pm) we finally arrived at the little settlement and after a quick demonstration on the didgeridoo from Damian to entertain the locals, we got a romm for RS10 each again in the Shoba lodge run by a very friendly woman.
There was a hot shower in the kitchen which was very welcome, but was actually so scalding hot it was almost impossible to get under – a stark contract to when you got out which was freezing!
We dined on garlic soup (good for altitude sickness prevention, so we are told), fried potatoes with cheese and lots of milk tea. An Ausiie bloke there had been along the trek and was now on his way back so we asked him losts of questions and talked about various accents of Everest itself and the many fatalities.
We were in bed by 8.30pm and soon asleep dreaming of the mountains to come.
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