India - Day 2 - Delhi

Lots of rain, but warm

I hadn't slept well that night with my body clock still 5 and a half hours behind me and so fell fast asleep in the early morning, though managed to drag myself out of bed around 10am for breakfast at "Appetite Cafe" next to "lord's" of poached eggs on toast.  The toast was like cardboard and the yolks of the eggs were as white as the whites, however the coffee was damn good.

I headed down to the railway station to get a ticket out of Delhi and after finding the tourist office got a ticket easily for US$4 to Shimla further north in the foothills of the Himalayas, then returned and lunched at "Lord's" before walking for miles to Old Delhi to find Chandni Chowk which the LP describes as a "colourful shopping bazaar"  It took me over an hour to find and I had to fend off hundreds of offers from rickshaw drivers.

When at last I did find the place most of the shops were shut, apparently in response to a demonstration about the government increasing the traders' rents.

I walked down to the Red Fort which dates from the peak of the Mughal Empire built between1638 and 1648. Details of the Red Fort  After I had entered through the Lahore Gate and reached the first main building the Indian monsoon rains, which were meant to be over by now, decended in full force and I sat sheltering and rested my weary legs.

An Indian lad who called himself Rocky sat by me and started talking

India - Day 1- Arrival in Delhi

Misty with some rain,

but warm and later hot

I landed in New Delhi Airport at just after 7am.  It was very foggy and raining, but a pleasant 25'C.  The airport  was scruffy and a bit run down, but customs was reasonably efficient and hassle free.

I change some pounds to rupees and caught the government bus into the city.  I was tired from the plane journey, but excited and I guess just a little scared.  Here I was in a new country I had dreamed of for so long, all alone, knew only three words of the language [Ich, Dou, Tin = 1, 2, 3] and was here to stay for 6 months if I could.

I'd read that cows were everywhere in India, but I was surprised to see them wandering the streets as soon as the bus pulled out from the airport.  Suburban Delhi looked a little grim and foreboding under the monsoon mists as I look out through the window of my old TATA bus.

I got off at the New Delhi Railway Station and took a deep breath to face India...

I didn't fare well at first.  I was trying to find Main Bazaar in the Paharganj area using the trusty Lonely Planet guide book map, but didn't relaise I was at the wrong side of the railway station and the map was making no sense.

Easily spotting a lost tourist the auto-rickshaw drivers who were everywhere began hassling me sensing some easy money.  One guy who spoke good English beckoned me into a tourist office and said he would take me to the hotel I'd chosen at random from the Lonely Planet for Rs2 if I would just go into the office so he would get some commision.  The sun was now beating down and a crowd gathering so I went in, but I was determined there was no way I would book a hotel from there.

I was ushered into the back room where the 'agent' phoned the Anoop Hotel I had chosen, and of course it was all booked up, but he had a lovely one near by at a little more money.  I said thank you and walked back out.

My auto-rickshaw driver took me to the Anoop after that and I kicked myself when I realised my mistake with the map as we buzzed through the crowded streets .  On arrival he decided I owed him Rs100 for the 2 minute journey which was a blatantly huge rip off and we haggled it down to Rs50 (HK$12) which was still daylight robbery, but I was too exhausted to care.

The Anoop Hotel did of course have rooms as it was still only 9:15am and I booked into a windowless single room with a fan and attached bathroom for the princely sum of Rs160 per night and collapsed onto the surprisingly comfortable bed.

I went out and walked up and down Main Bazaar avoiding beggars and traders as best as possible.  Main Bazaar is a narrow street with stalls and little eateries on either side with a road surface which is either muddy or strewn with rubbish or rotting vegetables.  It's incredibly hard to walk up and down as there are so many people, cows and auto and cycle-rickshaws all jostling for room.

I dived into a little cafe where there were already some westerners needing a bit of reassurance on my first day and ordered daal makani, rice, naan and a banana lassi.  All were very good and cheap and I know I was going to love the food in India at least.  The staff were friendly too so I stayed there for a while reading in the relative security from the madness outside.

I was suffering massive jet lag and went back to the room for a nap.

I again ventured out around 8:30pm to a restaurant just up the road, Lord's Cafe as suggested by the guide book.  Aagin the food was good but I was gutted to learn the Delhi's licensing laws prohibit the sale of alcohol after 9pm and I was stuck with coffee.

An English lad from somewhere near Birmingham sat with me for a while.  He was friendly enough, but then started going on about selling my travellers' cheques to him and/or visa card and then that I should pay around Rs1,500 to get to Shimla.  "Yes, mate" I replied with heavy sarcasm and he left me.  I'd mentally prepared myself for occasionally getting ripped off by the locals, but hadn't expected westerners to get in on the act on my first day.

I have no photos to show for these first few days - it was all too much to take in to worry about expensive camera equipment as well, but as my confidence grew over the next few days,i would relax into it all.

And so it was back to my room later that evening where the drain in my bathroom had exploded, leaving turds all over the floor.

Welcome to India, my friend.